Post-Processing European-Style Part #1

One of the Pentax forum members at dpreview asked me about the post-processing of some of my photos from northern Europe, and unfortunately I haven’t had time to make a detailed response.

Until now.

Hold on to your seats, fellas, because we’re going to take a wild ride through Mr. Adobe’s Lightroom Extravaganza!

Seriously, I’ve been trying to figure out a way to make my post-processing process a bit more universal. It’s straight-forward enough if you also use Lightroom, but how to make it transferable to users of Photoshop or Elements or GiMP? I took screenshots of the tonal curves and histograms this time; hopefully that helps. If you have any other ideas, please let me know!

Now, for the actual photos =)

Case Study #1: Fisherman on the River Meuse

Original:

Fisherman Original

I loved the framing of this one, but it definitely lacked punch as I shot it - not surprising, actually, since I have all my settings in-camera set to either 0 or negative values (saturation, contrast, etc. etc. ). I like to add all of that in post-processing.

For this one, I added almost all of the punch by adjusting the basic values.

Exposure: +.38
Recovery: 0
Fill Light: +31
Blacks: +57

Brightness: +32 (this actually decreases blackness, as Lightroom starts at a value of 50)
Contrast: +41 (from a Lightroom start value of +25)

Clarity: +17
Vibrance: +67
Saturation: -45

This gives us rather slight modifications, as evidenced here:

Basic Edits

Next we have the Tonal Curve adjustments (”curves” in almost every other software). I made the following adjustments, all from start values of 0.

Highlights: +25
Lights: +12
Darks: -14
Shadows: -50

The tonal curve went from this:

Fisherman Original Tonal Curve

to this:

Fisherman Final Tonal Curve

and the photo looked like this afterwards:

Fisherman Tonal Curve Edits

We’re getting there…

Next I made some adjustments to the Hue/Saturation/Luminance as follows, all coming from a start value of 0:

Red:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -100
Luminance: 0

Orange:
Hue: +33
Saturation: -7
Luminance: 0

Yellow:
Hue: -12
Saturation: +100
Luminance: +100

Green:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -100
Luminance: +100

Aqua:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -100
Luminance:0

Blue:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -52
Luminance: +64

Purple:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -100
Luminance: 0

Magenta:
Hue: 0
Saturation: -100
Luminance: 0

The reds, purples, and magentas were desaturated fully because there was some chromatic aberration on the fishing pole, and as nothing important in the photo were those colors, I just did away with them.

The photo now looks like this:

Fisherman HSL Edits

Next, for the split toning. When I want a duotoned photo, I find its easiest to add by using split toning rather than adjusting the individual colors. In this case, I wanted yellowish-green highlights and blue shadows. In Lightroom, I chose a value of 60 for the hue of the highlight, with a saturation of 80. For the shadows, I chose 240 as the hue with a saturation of 85. To give you an idea:

Fisherman Split Toning Graph

I adjusted the balance between highlights and shadows to +17 (the highlights have more weight when it comes to the distribution of color), and the photo looks like this now:

Fisherman Split Toning Edits

The next category in Lightroom is Noise Reduction and Sharpening. I have a confessions: I never adjust these or even bother looking at them. So, moving on to the next:

Vignetting! My favorite!

Once again, Lightroom has a start value of 0 for the vignette amount.  Negative amounts refer to a dark vignette added; positive values add a white vignette. I added -88. The other adjustment you can make in Lightroom is to adjust the midpoint of the vignette - whether the vignettes starts from the middle of the photo or affects only the corners. For this, Lightroom’s start value is 50, which is a pretty standard vignette. At 0, the vignette encroaches to the very middle of the photo; the edges are entirely black and all shadow detail in the bridge is lost. At 100, the vignette just barely darkens the edges of the photo. I opted for a value of 100. Here’s what the photo looks like now:

Fisherman Final

And that’s actually the finished version!

The histogram, by the way, started out looking like this, which I think would generally be considered to be an acceptable histogram for the challenging contrasts in this photo:

Fisherman Original Histogram

to this:

Fisherman Final Histogram

which is basically an example of what a histogram should NOT look like. ;)

5 Responses to “ Post-Processing European-Style Part #1 ”

  1. kesha Says:

    Kath, thanks for the tutorial.

    rgds,

    Rusma/Kesha

  2. Andrew Says:

    Nice explanation. I hadn’t ever yet found a use for split-toning, but this is interesting. I guess it has a lot more effect when you do so much desaturation. I will say that the sharpening control in LR doesn’t seem to have all that much effect so you’re not missing much. I will occaisionally tweak the noise control for a noisier low-light shot but again, its effect is pretty subtle so I don’t think the shots benefit all that much.

    Any reason you didn’t use the dedicated CA controls in lens correction section rather than attacking it by desaturating magenta, etc.?

  3. rhasalgheti Says:

    Thanks for sharing your postwork techniques!I think LR is not the best software to process photos but in some cases is very useful to do come kinds of things,as in this case.:-) sorry for my english.

  4. FlashyThingy Says:

    Thanks for taking all this time to share your PP techniques with us, I know this is one area where i need to spend more time before posting shots even though I try my best to get the shot right first time. I appreciate you sharing your “secrets”.

  5. Andy Says:

    Y’know, I saw this picture a while back and it only now occurred to me that you chose yellow and blue for the highlights and shadows for a reason - that that’s what colour they actually are!

Leave a Reply